After getting it back together it's working fine again.Ģ001 F350 XLT CC SRW 4X4 PSD 6spd pulling 2001 Mallard 37D I cleaned the circuit board (there was a pretty thick layer of dust on it) and pulled the connector to the circuit board. It would cycle three times and then the fan would run. My Hydro-Flame was igniting but wouldn't stay lit. If that is all good, post, and the furnace troubleshooting is in order but get the power issue resolved first. You may be getting too much voltage drop in bad connections for the furnace motor to get up to the correct speed. All available on the site waflhtrider provide links to.Ĭheck all the wiring terminations from the fuse panel to the furnace and the grounds at the batteries, converter and furnace. The popular replacements are not the Parallax switching converters, but are the Progressive Dynamics or WFCO converters. Parallax bought Magnetek's converter lines. You can get a schematic for it here: Linear Converters. It appears that your 6345 has either failed, or someone adjusted the output voltage way too high trying to charge batteries faster. The same motor circulates air inside the coach, and supplies combustion air,(blower on each end of the shaft) so any obstruction in either path can cause not enough air movement to operate the sail switch. If you go to there is an article on installing a better unit in the same spot, also a diagram that shows why the red and blue must be separate.Īlmost forgot the furnace, if it works on on high voltage, and not on the lower voltage that it should work on, the actual direct cause is probably the sail switch that verifies sufficient air movement. The thing works, but is not very high quality. There is a relay inside that connects the blue wire to the output of the converter when there is AC present, and to the battery (red wire) when AC is not available. If some thoughtful soul has connected the battery to the same lead as the load, or connected the red and blue leads together, the total un regulated output will go to the batteries, which should boil them dry pretty quick. The red lead goes to the battery, there is an adjustment that lets you set this to 14.2 volts with charged battery attached. The blue one supplies dc power for loads and is not filtered or regulated in any way, great for lights and electronics that is not to picky. The white one is ground, connects to dc ground or frame. The MagneTek 6345 has 3 dc wires coming from it, a red, a white, and a blue. I suppose the 17+ volts may have damaged the board in your furnace.Įnjoy meeting other folks in the area to camp with. That being said, low voltage will keep your furnace from lighting, but 13.7 is far from low voltage. Well one thing is for sure, you need to replace that converter with a Parallax or World Friendship Converter. The furnace lights with the 17.3v applied to it - but the water boils in the batteries - but will not light when 13.7v from the batteries is applied to it.Īre these related, or do I just notice one because of the other?Īnyone have any idea what is with my furnace? Apparently my converter (6345 series Magnetek) is putting 17.3 volts to the batteries. ![]() So I dig out the meter to see what is up. Today I pulled the batteries and found them dry, added 6-16 oz bottles of water to bring them up to proper level. The second problem is that the converter boiled the water out of 2 new group 29 deep cycle batteries within one week. The first problem I noticed was that my furnace (Atwood Hydro-flame) would run but not light unless I was plugged into shore power with the converter on. I have two problems that seem to be somehow related.maybe. Topic: Converter and Furnace.problems related? RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: Converter and Furnace.problems related? Open Roads Forum
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